When you apply your moisturizer in the morning, how closely are you paying attention to the ingredients in it? What about your shampoo, hairspray, or makeup? It turns out, these products that often have direct contact with our skin could be exposing us to several toxic chemicals, according to experts at the Environmental Working Group (EWG), a nonprofit environmental research and advocacy organization.
“Most of these ingredients are not tested for safety before they enter the market,” EWG environmental epidemiologist Alexa Friedman tells Fortune.
Starting this year, California no longer allows cosmetic companies to manufacture their products with 12 ingredients that the European Union already banned, according to the newly enacted law. While several other states have banned harmful ingredients like formaldehyde and phthalates in personal care products—according to Safer States, a national alliance of environmental health organizations—there are still numerous potentially dangerous ingredients in cosmetics, experts warn.
Friedman says that the main issue isn’t as much single ingredients as it is the combination of chemicals found in cosmetics, in addition to toxins in the water and the air we breathe.
“We aren’t just exposed to these chemicals in our personal care products,” Friedman says. “It’s really about the totality of exposure—something we call ‘body burden.’ Exposure to chemical mixtures has been associated with worse health outcomes than exposure to a single chemical.”
Many of the ingredients on this list have been linked to hormone disruption and cancer, the EWG reports. They recently identified the common hazardous ingredients found in products marketed to Black women, which included undisclosed fragrances, lilial, and some formaldehyde-releasing preservatives.
Here’s what to look for on your personal product labels to avoid potentially harmful chemicals and reduce your overall “body burden.”
1. Fragrance
Products are certainly more appealing when they smell good, but the fragrances that some companies use may be hiding harmful chemicals, Friedman says.
“Undisclosed fragrance” blends “can mean that there’s 300 different chemicals in that product,” she says. While many of those ingredients are likely safe, she adds, companies aren’t required to disclose all of these ingredients in these blends.
“The issue is that consumers don’t know what’s in their products,” Friedman says.
What to look for on the label: Avoid lilial, “fragrance/parfum/perfume” without disclosure of specific ingredients.
2. Formaldehyde
Formaldehyde has been ruled a Group 1 carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), meaning it is directly linked to causing cancer in humans.
Studies have linked formaldehyde to cancer of the nasopharynx (the upper part of the throat, behind the nose) and nasal sinuses, as well as leukemia.
According to the American Cancer Society and the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), formaldehyde is found in hair smoothing treatments, known as keratin treatments and personal care products like shampoo and liquid baby soaps.
The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics states that formaldehyde could be directly added to products, or it could be released from other added ingredients.
What to look for on the label:
- Quaternium-15
- DMDM hydantoin
- imidazolidinyl urea
- Diazolidinyl urea
- Polyoxymethylene urea
- Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate
- Bronopol
- Glyoxal
3. Methylene glycol
Methylene glycol has been found to be toxicologically equivalent to formaldehyde, also used in hair-straightening treatments and products. The process of heating those products containing methylene glycol releases formaldehyde into the air, according to the European Union, which humans can then breathe in.
What to look for on the label: Methylene glycol.
4. Quaternary ammonium compounds (QACs)
This chemical, found in many makeup, lotions, and other skincare and haircare products, according to the EWG, is used as a preservative. It has the potential to release formaldehyde, Friedman says, in addition to causing skin, eye, and respiratory irritation.
What to look for on the label: words ending “-monium chloride,” that start or have “quaternium.” Common QACs include: Behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, and stearalkonium chloride.
5. Phthalates
Phthalates are a class of chemicals commonly used in fragrances to make scents last longer and adhere to the skin, the EWG says. It’s important to note that not all chemicals in a class are known to be harmful, with some phthalates having been reported to have worse effects on health than others; however, phthalates are known endocrine disruptors, associated with health impacts on the development of the brain and reproductive outcomes, like preterm birth.
The EWG says phthalates used in products include:
- Dibutylphthalate (DBP), used in nail polishes
- Dimethylphthalate (DMP), used in hair sprays
- Diethylphthalate (DEP), used as a solvent and fixative
While the EPA has classified dibutyl phthalates (DBP) as Group D—meaning there’s not enough data to conclude that it’s carcinogenic to humans. The EWG, however, has raised concerns based on animal studies that found that prenatal exposure to DBP impacts reproductive system development in baby boys, and is correlated with changes in serum hormone levels, lower sperm concentration and motility, and decreased fertility in adult men.
While DBP is found in some nail polishes and nail treatment products, according to the EWG, the EPA says that the largest source of dibutyl phthalates is in food, particularly fish and seafood.
What to look for on the label: Words ending in “-phthalate.”
6. Parabens
Like phthalates, parabens are a class of chemicals, used as preservatives in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and food that has been linked to endocrine disruption. The FDA says that parabens are common preservatives in cosmetic products like makeup, moisturizers, hair care products, and shaving products.
Studies show that long-term exposure to parabens can lead to obesity, infertility, and may be linked to several cancers. Parabens can mimic estrogen and have been found in breast cancer tumors.
What to look for on the label: Words that end in “-paraben.” Examples include propylparaben, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, methylparaben, butylparaben, and ethylparaben.
7. PFAS chemicals
Per- and polyfluoroalkyl chemicals, or PFAS, are known endocrine disruptors used widely in industrial settings, and are commonly found in waterproof products and nonstick pans. They are known as “forever chemicals” because they don’t break down in our bodies or in the environment—and with more exposure, the concentration only builds, in a process known as bioaccumulation.
Linda Birnbaum, retired former director of the National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences, previously told Fortune that PFAS exposure can lead to endocrine disruption, impacting:
- Glucose metabolism
- Thyroid function
- Fat metabolism
- Bone metabolism
- Reproductive hormones, which can lead to infertility and certain cancers including breast, kidney, and prostate.
The FDA states PFAS can found in cosmetics like:
- Lipsticks
- Eyeshadows
- Moisturizers
- Rouges
- Nail polish and enamel
- Blushers
- Cleansers
They are used to condition and smooth the skin and hair, or to improve product consistency and texture. The FDA reports that some cosmetics may be contaminated with PFAS unintentionally as the result of raw material impurities.
What to look for on the label: Words that begin with “perfluoro-” or “polyfluoro-.”
8. Isothializones
These chemicals are used as an anti-microbial preservative, Friedman says, and can cause allergic reactions and skin irritation.
What to look for on the label: Words ending in “-isothiazolinone,” especially methylisothiazolinone or methylchloroisothiazolinone.
Other helpful resources
If you want to know where your state stands on banning these and other potentially harmful cosmetic ingredients, here is a helpful chart that shows which states have already banned, or proposed legislation to ban or limit the use of, certain ingredients.
Read more from Fortune
“Until states started stepping in and identifying some of the worst ingredients and banning them, no one was really looking,” says lawyer and EWG’s vice president of government affairs, Melanie Benesh. “No one was really holding the cosmetics industry accountable in government.”
Additionally, the EWG has put together a database of cosmetic products that rates their safety based on ingredients and current science.
“It’s overwhelming to hear that there are chemicals in your personal care products,” Friedman says. But having the knowledge of what products to avoid is an easy step you can take, she adds, to add another layer of protection.
More on chemicals:
- Microplastics are everywhere. Here are 5 ways to reduce your exposure
- The truth about American drinking water: Report shows widespread presence of hazardous chemicals
- Endocrine-disrupting chemicals are everywhere. Here’s how to reduce your exposure
- Tea bags and these 11 foods are likely exposing you to billions of microplastics
