• Home
  • Latest
  • Fortune 500
  • Finance
  • Tech
  • Leadership
  • Lifestyle
  • Rankings
  • Multimedia

Trendingnow

1

Analysts expected oil to surge above $200 but China has quietly kept prices half of that—and can’t for much longer

2

Pentagon accuses Alibaba, Baidu and BYD, three of China's biggest companies, of supporting the Chinese military

3

Costco CEO Ron Vachris rose from forklift driver to the C-suite without a college degree: ‘Don’t chase a title’ is the career advice that got him there

1

Analysts expected oil to surge above $200 but China has quietly kept prices half of that—and can’t for much longer

2

Pentagon accuses Alibaba, Baidu and BYD, three of China's biggest companies, of supporting the Chinese military

3

Costco CEO Ron Vachris rose from forklift driver to the C-suite without a college degree: ‘Don’t chase a title’ is the career advice that got him there
RetailVictoria's Secret

Billionaire Les Wexner gives up control of Victoria’s Secret after failing to fix the struggling brand

Phil Wahba
By
Phil Wahba
Phil Wahba
Senior Writer
Down Arrow Button Icon
Phil Wahba
By
Phil Wahba
Phil Wahba
Senior Writer
Down Arrow Button Icon
February 20, 2020, 11:20 AM ET

L Brands is selling a controlling stake in Victoria’s Secret after 82-year-old billionaire CEO, founder, and biggest investor Les Wexner proved unable to repair the once iconic lingerie brand.

The company, a leading mall-based store operator, said on Thursday it was selling a 55% stake in Victoria’s Secret for $525 million to retail-focused private equity firm Sycamore Partners.

L Brands also said that Wexner, the longest service CEO of any S&P 500 company with 57 years at the helm, would step down as chairman and CEO, taking the title of chairman emeritus. Andrew Meslow, a top executive at its much more successful Bath & Body Works chain, will take the CEO role at L Brands, which will now be primarily made up of Bath & Body Works. L Brands’ portfolio over the years has included names like Express, The Limited, and Abercrombie & Fitch, all spun out by their parent company.

The $1.1 billion valuation for Victoria’s Secret, a chain almost twice as big as Bath & Body Works in revenue, reflects how far the once high-flying brand at the center of American culture has fallen. Its annual prime-time fashion show every autumn (canceled last November after 20 years) used to attract big-name performers like Taylor Swift and Nicki Minaj, with supermodels vying to be a Victoria’s Secret “Angel.”

L Brands fell 4% in early trading as investors had expected Victoria’s Secret to fetch a better price that would help pay down L Brands’ $5.5 billion debt more quickly.

“A partial sale and this low price won’t help the company’s massive debt load and shows just how desperate LB has become to try to unload VS,” wrote Randal J. Konik, a retail analyst at Jefferies. At its peak in 2015, L Brands was worth $29 billion; on Thursday morning, its market value was $6.2 billion.

A mall-based fallen angel

Victoria’s Secret, which Wexner bought in 1982 for a pittance before turning it into a lingerie behemoth, hit its sales apex in 2016, when the brand reached $7.78 billion in sales and clocked massive profits. For 2019, it looks set to report $6.9 billion—and the declines have been accelerating lately.

On Thursday, L Brands reported holiday quarter sales results that show just how much Victoria’s Secret and Bath & Body Works have diverged in terms of financial performance: comparable sales rose 10% at Bath & Body Works, but fell by that same percentage at Victoria’s Secret.

When Wexner bought Victoria’s Secret, he tapped into fatigue at the time with the dullness and poor fits of most lingerie. But in more recent years, he proved out of sync with the times and with women’s growing focus on comfort, rather than a man’s approval, when it came to buying bras and panties.

Last year, Victoria’s Secret tried to remake its image to de-emphasize hyper-sexuality, but during this past holiday season, it was still selling wares that in some cases would fit in quite well in an adult store, as illustrated by a photo taken by Stacey Widlitz of SW Retail Advisors.

https://twitter.com/StaceyRetail/status/1230483742717771781?s=20

Worsening the sense of Victoria’s Secret being a brand led by out-of-touch men in the #MeToo era, Wexner found himself tainted by his connection to Jeffrey Epstein, who for years had been his financial adviser and who died in a New York jail cell last summer while facing federal sex-trafficking charges. Earlier in February, the New York Times published an exposé about the culture of misogyny and harassment at Victoria’s Secret.

For all its glamour over the years, Victoria’s Secret had long become a discount driven, mall-based retailer in the same vain as The Gap and Aéropostale. It was reduced to offering tons of coupons and deep discounts to entice shoppers, something Wexner acknowledged in 2016, when he took direct control of Victoria’s Secret after dismissing its head. His moves, such as eliminating its swimwear line and catalog, were no match for the cultural forces he didn’t see coming and, in fact, worsened matters.

That made for fertile ground for a slew of new lingerie brands like ThirdLove and Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty to emerge, as well room for the likes of Target to make a bigger move in intimate apparel.

Sycamore—which typically buys up struggling retailers, cutting costs, then flipping them—will have its hands full trying to fix Victoria’s Secret. (Its acquisitions in the last few years have included The Limited, show brand Nine West Holdings, and its leveraged buyout of Staples.)

As Neil Saunders, managing director of GlobalData Retail, put it in a note: “The truth is that the Victoria’s Secret brand no longer attracts a premium in the way it once did.” And with customers walking away in droves, it’s not clear how Victoria’s Secret can regain that aura.

More must-read stories from Fortune:

—With a strong consumer economy, Walmart is on the hook for any slowing sales
—$13 box of health-conscious cereal could be key to General Mills’ growth
—Land O’Lakes wants to introduce you to the farmer behind your butter
—From apple juice to antibiotics: Coronavirus epidemic could cause U.S. shortages
—WATCH: Inside the algorithm powering Stitch Fix

Follow Fortune on Flipboard to stay up-to-date on the latest news and analysis.

About the Author
Phil Wahba
By Phil WahbaSenior Writer
LinkedIn iconTwitter icon

Phil Wahba is a senior writer at Fortune primarily focused on leadership coverage, with a prior focus on retail.

See full bioRight Arrow Button Icon

Latest in Retail

Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025

Most Popular

Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Fortune Secondary Logo
Rankings
  • 100 Best Companies
  • Fortune 500
  • Global 500
  • Fortune 500 Europe
  • Most Powerful Women
  • World's Most Admired Companies
  • See All Rankings
  • Lists Calendar
Sections
  • Finance
  • Fortune Crypto
  • Features
  • Leadership
  • Health
  • Commentary
  • Success
  • Retail
  • Mpw
  • Tech
  • Lifestyle
  • CEO Initiative
  • Asia
  • Politics
  • Conferences
  • Europe
  • Newsletters
  • Personal Finance
  • Environment
  • Magazine
  • Education
Customer Support
  • Frequently Asked Questions
  • Customer Service Portal
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms Of Use
  • Single Issues For Purchase
  • International Print
Commercial Services
  • Advertising
  • Fortune Brand Studio
  • Fortune Analytics
  • Fortune Conferences
  • Business Development
  • Group Subscriptions
About Us
  • About Us
  • Press Center
  • Work At Fortune
  • Terms And Conditions
  • Site Map
  • About Us
  • Press Center
  • Work At Fortune
  • Terms And Conditions
  • Site Map
  • Facebook icon
  • Twitter icon
  • LinkedIn icon
  • Instagram icon
  • Pinterest icon

Latest in Retail

South Korea fines Coupang record $409 million for data breach
AsiaCoupang
South Korea fines Coupang record $409 million for data breach
By Jaehyun Eom, Shinhye Kang and BloombergJune 11, 2026
6 hours ago
Honda recalls nearly 900,000 cars thanks to rear suspension problems
RetailHonda
Honda recalls nearly 900,000 cars thanks to rear suspension problems
By The Associated PressJune 10, 2026
19 hours ago
Jamie Laing thinks tomorrow’s Fortune 500 will be built by creators. He might be right 
C-Suitecreator economy
Jamie Laing thinks tomorrow’s Fortune 500 will be built by creators. He might be right 
By Sam BirchallJune 10, 2026
1 day ago
Matt Damon and Gary White.
EnvironmentWaters
Corporate America has been draining the world’s water. Matt Damon’s new campaign calls on Gap, Starbucks, and Amazon to help give it back
By Catherina GioinoJune 9, 2026
2 days ago
Chinese beauty brands flock to Southeast Asia as their first step in going global
RetailChina
Chinese beauty brands flock to Southeast Asia as their first step in going global
By Angelica AngJune 9, 2026
2 days ago
John Furner, CEO, Walmart US
SuccessCost of living
Walmart CEO John Furner says even wealthy shoppers are now shopping at the discount grocery chain as high prices stretch six-figure earners
By Emma BurleighJune 8, 2026
3 days ago

Most Popular

Analysts expected oil to surge above $200 but China has quietly kept prices half of that—and can’t for much longer
Energy
Analysts expected oil to surge above $200 but China has quietly kept prices half of that—and can’t for much longer
By Sasha RogelbergJune 10, 2026
19 hours ago
Pentagon accuses Alibaba, Baidu and BYD, three of China's biggest companies, of supporting the Chinese military
Asia
Pentagon accuses Alibaba, Baidu and BYD, three of China's biggest companies, of supporting the Chinese military
By Kate O'Keeffe and BloombergJune 8, 2026
3 days ago
Costco CEO Ron Vachris rose from forklift driver to the C-suite without a college degree: ‘Don’t chase a title’ is the career advice that got him there
Success
Costco CEO Ron Vachris rose from forklift driver to the C-suite without a college degree: ‘Don’t chase a title’ is the career advice that got him there
By Preston ForeJune 8, 2026
3 days ago
Current price of oil as of June 10, 2026
Personal Finance
Current price of oil as of June 10, 2026
By Joseph HostetlerJune 10, 2026
24 hours ago
Marc Lore’s robots make 500 burrito bowls an hour. A human can make 45
Innovation
Marc Lore’s robots make 500 burrito bowls an hour. A human can make 45
By Amanda GerutJune 9, 2026
2 days ago
A ‘MAGA Warrior’ Texas ag chief is publicly blasting the USDA over a flesh-eating pest threatening America's beef supply
North America
A ‘MAGA Warrior’ Texas ag chief is publicly blasting the USDA over a flesh-eating pest threatening America's beef supply
By Marco Quiroz-GutierrezJune 10, 2026
1 day ago

© 2026 Fortune Media IP Limited. All Rights Reserved. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy | CA Notice at Collection and Privacy Notice | Do Not Sell/Share My Personal Information
FORTUNE is a trademark of Fortune Media IP Limited, registered in the U.S. and other countries. FORTUNE may receive compensation for some links to products and services on this website. Offers may be subject to change without notice.